14 February 2008

The soft glow of candlelight graces the room, waxing and waning as the flame flickers gently in the evening breeze that wafts in from the serenity outside. The air is laced with the sweet scent of eucalyptus. Magnificent chords swell forth from the classical concerto playing on the radio, touching in the soul an inexplicable feeling of connection to a larger, spiritual world and a passion for living. The taste of rich, imported chocolate imparts exquisite pleasure.

With the click of a switch, the room is abruptly illuminated. Harsh light glares from the naked bulb overhead. Jarring static rips through the concerto as the radio signal meets with sudden interference. Slowly, unwillingly, I open my eyes. My landlady's face hovers over me as she stands next to the couch upon which I am reclining. The power has returned, she tells me. Why don't I blow out the candles and turn on the lights? And what am I doing lying there on the couch?

Happy Valentine's Day!

12 February 2008

Perhaps it is because I live among a people who speak a language that is still largely incomprehensible to me. Perhaps it is because the streams of communication that fill the world around me simply wash over me without seeping in to find understanding. Perhaps it is because, often lacking words, I commonly rely on the use of gestures, facial expressions, and other body language. Undoubtedly for all these reasons and many others beside, I feel a special attachment to the deaf students I have met here. Ever since that first visit to the special needs classes with Negalign, I have felt myself drawn back week after week to those beautiful children with whom I feel a singular sort of kinship.

My Tuesday mornings are spent invariably at the end of a rough wooden bench of students, learning to communicate with them in their voiceless voice. There are eight of them in this particular class, four girls and four boys, ranging in age from eight to eighteen. Among them are the eager twelve-year-old boy and 18-year-old girl, who race each other to be the first at the blackboard with the right answer; the tiny eight-year-old girl with the lemon-yellow dress, close-shaven head, beautiful bashful grin, and five-second attention span; and the fourteen-year-old boy with the gentle manner, who though frequently finding himself just a step behind his classmates, never allows his mistakes to discourage him from trying. They all sit in a row, a diverse collection of students brought together by virtue of their common impairment.

On this particular Tuesday morning, one of the five special education teachers is sick, so my teacher finds herself splitting time between three groups of students, one blind and two deaf. During the first morning period, the students' schedules have fortuitously aligned so that all are scheduled for math. My teacher starts at the blackboard in front of my group of eight, signing through exercises in addition and subtraction. Leaving them to practice with the bottlecaps that serve as their instructional materials, she moves on to the dozen blind students, running through the same exercises orally. She checks in quickly with the small, advanced groups of deaf students, who are left mostly to study independently. Then, she is back at the blackboard again, ready to repeat her whirlwind cycle.

The second morning session proves more difficult. My eight are scheduled for "sport and health." The advanced group has Amharic. The class of blind students has English. The cycle will no longer serve; it is time to divide and conquer. After receiving a cursory briefing on my assignment, I take charge of the English class. My job is straightforward. I am to read exercises from the one printed textbook so that each student may copy them in Braille to study at home. There are no Braille textbooks for their use. Meanwhile, my teacher is signing her way through the "ABCs" (Abstinence, Be Faithful, Condom Use) of HIV/AIDS prevention (trying to direct "C" over the heads of her younger students, in compliance with regulations). The advanced group, again, is left to study independently.

At the end of class, as students are dismissed for lunch, my teacher pulls me aside to ask, "What do you see are the strengths and weaknesses of my teaching?" It is possibly the most humbling moment of my Peace Corps service to date. Here is one teacher tasked with teaching 23 students, in three different groups, with two different impairments, at a spectrum of varying ages and abilities, in three different subjects simultaneously, with one textbook, a blackboard, and some bottlecaps at her disposal. Yet, rather than lament the difficulties of her situation, which she cannot control, she seeks advice for improvement in the areas of her teaching that she can control. In the midst of her hardships, she wants to be the best teacher she possibly can be. It is determination and drive like this that shines great hope for Ethiopia's future. I only hope that I can find a way to equip this determination and drive to better accomplish the noble ends that it seeks.

7 February 2008

Some odds and ends:

"EasyMac", when one does not have a microwave, becomes merely "NormalMac". Indeed, if the exhortations printed on each packet are to be believed ("Made for the microwave. Just adding boiling water will not cook macaroni."), it actually becomes "SlightlymoredifficultMac".

Mice can, in fact, chew through duct tape, as well as wall plaster, wooden door framing, and crocheted yard pot holders. Multiple layers of duct tape, while an effective stall tactic, are not ultimately a deterrent.

Some people will recount with horror the lifelike nightmares they have experienced under the influence of mefloquine (a malaria prophylaxis). Some people will grin tellingly as they report having enjoyed vivid mefloquine-induced dreams of quite another kind. My mefloquine dreams of late have been about food. Last night's featured Papa John's Pizza ("The Works"), Breyer's mint chocolate chip ice cream, and Sam Adams Black Lager. I'm not sure exactly what this says about me.

We have kept two puppies from our dog's six-puppy litter, a female and a male. I named them Dounia and Raskol(nikov). I was reading Crime and Punishment at the time. If I ever have children of my own, keep me away from classic literature during my term, especially from the Russian authors.

I've made good friends of the armed guards posted outside my bank. I feel this has been a strategic move on my part. If major crisis strikes here, tell those leading the evacuation efforts that I have taken up refuge inside the Abyssinia Bank.

I ate a canned ham. All of it in one day, in fact, since I have no means by which to keep leftovers. Granted it was a small one; granted it was a real Hickory Farms ham and not its rather more dubious cousin, Spam; granted I ate it with sharp cheddar cheese, my first real cheese since being here, gifted to me by my beloved fellow Clemson alum PCV (God bless the Clemson Family!)…but it's still not something I'm proud of. I've heard admission is the first step to healing. Thanks for listening.